Sneaker Market Cools as 'Sneakerina' Trend Emerges

Published by The Daily Scout

What happened

The mass-market sneaker category is in a "cool-off period" as ubiquity has reduced the scarcity and cachet of popular models, according to the 'Nothing To Wear' podcast. A new hybrid ballet sneaker trend, dubbed the "Sneakerina," is gaining traction, with major brands offering feminine styles alongside the continued popularity of technical trail sneakers.

Why it matters

- The "Sneakerina" trend was pioneered as early as 2020 by Irish designer Simone Rocha with her "ballet tracker" shoes. More recently, a 2023 collaboration on a similar style between Danish designer Cecilie Bahnsen and Asics sold out within 10 minutes. - Major luxury and sportswear brands are embracing the hybrid style, including Louis Vuitton with its "LV Sneakerina," Miu Miu with its "Gymnasium ballerinas," and Puma with a ballet-inspired take on its popular Speedcat model. - The cooling of the mass-market sneaker category is evident in Nike's performance; the company's digital sales have declined for eight consecutive quarters, with a significant 21% drop in the second quarter of fiscal year 2025. This has been attributed to a strategy that over-relied on direct-to-consumer channels and led to excess inventory. - Adidas has also faced headwinds, reporting its first annual loss in over 30 years and forecasting a sales decline of around 5% in North America due to high inventory levels at retailers. - While some mainstream sneaker sales are slowing, Adidas's low-profile retro "terrace" sneakers like the Samba and Gazelle have surged in popularity, helping footwear sales grow 8% in the fourth quarter of 2023 while apparel sales fell 13%. - In contrast to the broader cool-down, the market for technical trail sneakers continues to expand, with brands like Salomon, Hoka, and On Running gaining popularity among fashion tastemakers. - Hoka is driving innovation in the trail category by incorporating elite racing-style super-critical foam into its trail-ready Speedgoat 7 model, aiming for a lighter, bouncier feel without sacrificing control. - The global sneaker market, valued at $94.1 billion in 2024, is still projected to grow, with forecasts estimating it will reach nearly $158 billion by 2033.

Key numbers

  • - The "Sneakerina" trend was pioneered as early as 2020 by Irish designer Simone Rocha with her "ballet tracker" shoes.
  • More recently, a 2023 collaboration on a similar style between Danish designer Cecilie Bahnsen and Asics sold out within 10 minutes.
  • The cooling of the mass-market sneaker category is evident in Nike's performance; the company's digital sales have declined for eight consecutive quarters, with a significant 21% drop in the second quarter of fiscal year 2025.
  • Adidas has also faced headwinds, reporting its first annual loss in over 30 years and forecasting a sales decline of around 5% in North America due to high inventory levels at retailers.

What happens next

  • In contrast to the broader cool-down, the market for technical trail sneakers continues to expand, with brands like Salomon, Hoka, and On Running gaining popularity among fashion tastemakers.
  • The global sneaker market, valued at $94.1 billion in 2024, is still projected to grow, with forecasts estimating it will reach nearly $158 billion by 2033.

Quick answers

What happened in Sneaker Market Cools as 'Sneakerina' Trend Emerges?

The mass-market sneaker category is in a "cool-off period" as ubiquity has reduced the scarcity and cachet of popular models, according to the 'Nothing To Wear' podcast. A new hybrid ballet sneaker trend, dubbed the "Sneakerina," is gaining traction, with major brands offering feminine styles alongside the continued popularity of technical trail sneakers.

Why does Sneaker Market Cools as 'Sneakerina' Trend Emerges matter?

The "Sneakerina" trend was pioneered as early as 2020 by Irish designer Simone Rocha with her "ballet tracker" shoes. More recently, a 2023 collaboration on a similar style between Danish designer Cecilie Bahnsen and Asics sold out within 10 minutes. Major luxury and sportswear brands are embracing the hybrid style, including Louis Vuitton with its "LV Sneakerina," Miu Miu with its "Gymnasium ballerinas," and Puma with a ballet-inspired take on its popular Speedcat model. The cooling of the mass-market sneaker category is evident in Nike's performance; the company's digital sales have declined for eight consecutive quarters, with a significant 21% drop in the second quarter of fiscal year 2025. This has been attributed to a strategy that over-relied on direct-to-consumer channels and led to excess inventory. Adidas has also faced headwinds, reporting its first annual loss in over 30 years and forecasting a sales decline of around 5% in North America due to high inventory levels at retailers. While some mainstream sneaker sales are slowing, Adidas's low-profile retro "terrace" sneakers like the Samba and Gazelle have surged in popularity, helping footwear sales grow 8% in the fourth quarter of 2023 while apparel sales fell 13%. In contrast to the broader cool-down, the market for technical trail sneakers continues to expand, with brands like Salomon, Hoka, and On Running gaining popularity among fashion tastemakers. Hoka is driving innovation in the trail category by incorporating elite racing-style super-critical foam into its trail-ready Speedgoat 7 model, aiming for a lighter, bouncier feel without sacrificing control. The global sneaker market, valued at $94.1 billion in 2024, is still projected to grow, with forecasts estimating it will reach nearly $158 billion by 2033.

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