Tel Aviv Flavors Hit Brooklyn

Malka is the creation of celebrity chef Eyal Shani, a prominent figure in Israeli cuisine known for his theatrical descriptions and a culinary philosophy centered on pure, seasonal ingredients. Born in Jerusalem in 1959, Shani's passion for food was sparked by his grandfather, an agronomist and vegan. He opened his first restaurant, "Oceanus," in Jerusalem in 1989, where he developed a unique language based on Mediterranean products. The original Malka opened in Tel Aviv in 2018, marking Shani's first venture into kosher dining. The chef, who does not keep kosher himself, was motivated to create a space where his food could be enjoyed by a wider audience that observes Jewish dietary laws. The Tel Aviv location is also involved in a social mission, providing restaurant industry experience to at-risk youth. The Brooklyn outpost is not Shani's first foray into the New York City culinary scene. He already operates several other well-regarded establishments, including the high-energy HaSalon, the Michelin-starred Shmoné in Greenwich Village, and the popular pita spot, Miznon. Beyond the much-talked-about schnitzel stuffed with mashed potatoes, Malka's menu showcases a variety of other inventive dishes. Standouts include the branzino "hraime," a whole fish served in a spicy North African tomato and garlic sauce, and numerous vegetable-focused plates like a charred beetroot carpaccio and an eggplant sashimi. The atmosphere at the Dumbo location can dramatically shift depending on the day. Weeknights offer a more relaxed dining experience, while Thursdays transform the restaurant into a lively, Tel Aviv-style party with a DJ and dancing on tables. The beverage program complements the food with Israeli-inspired cocktails and a wine list that heavily features bottles from Israel. Creative cocktails include the "Jerusalem Negroni" with grapefruit and the "Limonarak," which incorporates the anise-flavored spirit arak.