Grand Central Market Gets Oaxacan Flavors
LA's Grand Central Market's legendary "Roast to Go" has closed after decades of serving Mexican classics, but a new Oaxacan stall has risen in its place. The transition promises to introduce market-goers to fresh regional flavors and ingredients from Oaxaca. This highlights the ongoing evolution of LA's food landscape, where heritage and innovation constantly intersect.
Roast to Go was Grand Central Market's longest continually operated business, serving roasted meats and Mexican-American classics since its founding in 1952. For the last 20 years, the stall was run by owner Sunnee Chung, who decided to retire, leading to the closure at the end of 2025. The spot was so cherished that the late Pulitzer Prize-winning food critic Jonathan Gold once tweeted, “If they touch Roast to Go, I will be down there with a machete.” The new stall, La Sandunga, is helmed by Oaxaca native Michael Robles, who is already a familiar face at the market as the owner of Olio Wood Fired Pizza. Robles had long dreamed of opening a stall dedicated to the cuisine of his home state, using his own family's recipes. La Sandunga is deeply rooted in Oaxacan tradition, sourcing approximately 80% of its ingredients directly from the region, including items like quesillo, tlayudas, and chapulines (grasshoppers). The menu features these authentic dishes, alongside mole, hearty braises, and an al pastor trompo. Even the coffee is sourced from Robles' hometown of Santa Catarina Juquila. While new, La Sandunga joins a rich history of Oaxacan cuisine in Los Angeles. Restaurants like Guelaguetza, founded in 1994, were among the first to introduce the region's complex moles and distinct flavors to the city, paving the way for wider appreciation.
