Rick Owens Debuts Dark Drama

The collection, titled "Tower," drew inspiration from the life of actress Marlene Dietrich, particularly her moral resistance and decision to entertain Allied troops during World War II. Owens translated this narrative of courage into a protective and purposeful wardrobe, aiming to create "towers of love and light." The show itself was staged in a smoke-flooded underground chamber at the Palais de Tokyo, creating an ominous and otherworldly atmosphere. A key material in the collection was Kevlar, a fabric five times stronger than steel and typically used for body armor, which was woven by a third-generation mill in Como, Italy. This industrial textile was contrasted with artisanal materials like towering coats made from long-haired goat hide, heavy cowhide leather, and soft, sustainable knits from Italy. The juxtaposition of high-tech defense materials with traditional craft was a central theme. The silhouettes were intentionally exaggerated and protective, with less focus on the sheer draping seen in previous seasons. Models wore "police boots" blown up to huge, bloated sizes and garments with modular elements that could be peeled apart to reveal vests underneath. Some looks featured half-shaved haircuts, further enhancing the dystopian edge of the presentation. This collection is a continuation of the themes explored in his menswear show, examining the concept of authority not as a costume, but as a daily pressure that shapes posture and behavior. While Owens has previously stripped military details from his designs to avoid aggression, this season he reintroduced them as a "total parody of power." The show also featured collaborations with artists like Lucas Moretti, who created intricate macramé masks that took over thirty hours to make.