Milan Fashion Week Abandons Minimalism

The shift is being led by a wave of new creative directors at major Italian houses. At Gucci, Demna Gvasalia's highly anticipated runway debut ushered in a "body-aware" and "hedonistic" era, with many looks reminiscent of Tom Ford's sensual '90s collections for the brand. The collection was a deliberate move towards emotion, with Demna stating he wanted to get closer to the "emotional aspect" of his work. At Fendi, Maria Grazia Chiuri, returning to the house where she once designed accessories, introduced a collection centered on the motto "Less I, more us." The designs aimed to connect with personal memories and relationships, creating what the show notes described as "emotionally durable" pieces. While the collection began with a series of sober black looks, it focused on silhouette and feeling, designed to "accompany our lives, our emotions, our desire." This move towards more expressive styles provides a stark contrast to the "quiet luxury" and practical minimalism that has recently dominated runways. Previous seasons emphasized timeless, versatile pieces characterized by neutral color palettes of beige, grey, and black, along with clean lines and simple, unadorned silhouettes. The focus was on functionality and longevity over overt displays of emotion or personality. Meryll Rogge's debut at Marni also signaled a change, moving away from recent experimentalism and back towards the brand's signature "quirky eccentricity." Rogge's vision is to evoke a "strong emotion" with her clothes, blending everyday wearability with unexpected details like oversized paillettes, bold prints, and rich textures, offering a more energetic and individualistic alternative to stark simplicity. Even at Bottega Veneta, designer Louise Trotter presented what some critics dubbed "emotional support outfits." The collection featured a spectrum of soft and fuzzy textures, from curly shearling to brushed silk, with rounded shoulders and softer hems, literally taking the hard edges off of traditional tailoring. This broader industry pivot to "emotional dressing" is seen as a reflection of a larger cultural shift. Consumers are increasingly dressing for how they want to feel—be it confident, calm, or joyful—rather than adhering to strict seasonal trends. This has led to a greater emphasis on personal style and self-expression, with clothing serving as a tool for mood regulation and a reflection of individuality. The new direction at Gucci, in particular, marks a significant departure from the brand's more recent past. Demna's collection featured ultra-skinny, body-hugging silhouettes, cropped tracksuits, and even a diamond-encrusted G-string, signaling a return to a more overt and unrestrained sexiness on the Milanese runways. This collective embrace of color, texture, and personality-driven style across Milan's major runways suggests a new chapter for Italian fashion. It marks a definitive move away from the safety of minimalism and towards a more expressive, sensual, and emotionally resonant approach to getting dressed.