NYC Gets Taipei Ramen Phenomenon
Ramen Chikumo, a 4.5-star phenomenon from Taipei, has launched in LA's Sawtelle district with $2 Sapporo beer specials. The shop introduces the "tori-paitan" style — a creamy chicken broth craze — to the competitive LA ramen scene. Meanwhile, Chef London Chase opened Seventy Seven Alley in NYC's Tribeca, bringing Netflix culinary star power to the neighborhood's gallery-inspired dining culture.
Though headquartered in Tokyo, Ramen Chikumo built its reputation in Taipei, operating three locations that stay open until 3 or 4 AM. This late-night service earned it the nickname "Taipei's Ultimate Late-Night Destination" in what locals call the city's "first-tier ramen war zone." The restaurant's signature tori-paitan broth is a creamy, white soup achieved by simmering whole chickens for over 12 hours. This process extracts collagen, creating a rich, emulsified broth that is less heavy than the more common pork-based tonkotsu. The LA location offers bowls starting at $18 and provides 90 minutes of validated parking. Ramen Chikumo emphasizes natural flavors, using no MSG and creating layered umami. The restaurant uses custom egg-free noodles and employs a low-temperature cooking method for its pork (5.5 hours) and chicken (1.5 hours) chashu. Chef London Chase, who appeared on Netflix's "Next Gen Chef," brings a global background to his kitchen, having been born in French Guiana, raised in London, and trained in demanding kitchens like Le Gavroche. Before his television debut, he worked at NYC restaurants Manhatta and Essential by Christophe. Seventy Seven Alley, located inside the Walker Hotel Tribeca, is designed to feel like a creative studio, mirroring the neighborhood's dense gallery scene. The small space features an eight-seat chef's counter for a close-up tasting experience and uses a binchotan grill for proteins and vegetables. Chase's menu is structured around a philosophy he calls “flavor architecture,” building dishes around profiles like heat, acid, and fat instead of traditional courses. Signature dishes include mahi mahi ceviche with mango and leche de tigre, and a chopped cheese made with koji-aged wagyu, Cooper cheese, and truffle.
