Michelin-Starred Restaurants Face Shifts
The fine dining scene is experiencing significant changes, with British chef Simon Rogan taking over the award-winning ION Harbour in Malta. Meanwhile, economic pressures have forced the closure of the Michelin-listed restaurant Örme in Urmston, Manchester. In Hong Kong, the acclaimed L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon is set to return this summer.
- Simon Rogan is the chef-owner of the acclaimed L'Enclume, a three-Michelin-starred restaurant in the UK, and is known for his signature farm-to-table philosophy. His restaurant group currently holds a total of nine Michelin stars across its locations in the UK, Malta, Hong Kong, and Thailand. - At ION Harbour, Rogan is adapting his ethos to the Mediterranean by creating a menu inspired by hyper-local Maltese produce, working with specialist foragers, spearfishermen, and sourcing from a third-generation salt farmer in Gozo. - The owners of Örme cited a growing "disparity between perceived value and the true cost of operations" as a key reason for the closure, stating that long-term sustainability had become unfeasible. A break in the restaurant's lease provided an opportunity for them to re-evaluate their circumstances. - The closure of Örme reflects a wider trend in the UK, where the licensed hospitality sector was experiencing four closures a day in the last quarter of 2025 due to rising operational costs and inflation. - L'Atelier's namesake, the late Joël Robuchon, was named "Chef of the Century" by the Gault et Millau guide and held a record 31 Michelin stars across his restaurants at the time of his death in 2018. - The Hong Kong restaurant's return follows a temporary closure for an extensive renovation of its 18,000 sq. ft. space at LANDMARK, where it has been located for 18 years. - Upgrades to L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon include a wine cellar four times its original size to house over 3,400 labels, five new private dining rooms, and a new al-fresco terrace. - The Hong Kong branch of L'Atelier is the only one of the global brand's locations to have held a three-Michelin-star rating for 13 consecutive years.