Gucci's "Guccimaxxing" Era Begins

Demna's appointment follows the brief two-year tenure of his predecessor, Sabato De Sarno, who departed from the brand in February 2025. De Sarno was brought on in 2023 to steer Gucci away from the maximalism of Alessandro Michele and towards a more minimalist, "quiet luxury" aesthetic. The shift to a more subdued style under De Sarno failed to achieve the desired commercial success. Gucci, a flagship brand for the Kering group, experienced a significant downturn in sales, with revenues falling 6% in 2023 and a further 23% in 2024. By the third quarter of 2024, sales had plummeted 25% year-over-year. For the full year of 2025, Gucci's sales were down 19% on a comparable basis, generating €5.99 billion. This slump heavily impacted Kering's overall performance, which saw total revenues for 2025 at €14.68 billion, a 10% comparable decrease, and a 56% drop in recurring net income from continuing operations. De Sarno's vision, which included the reintroduction of the "Ancora" red, was criticized by some for being uninspired and failing to create new "it" items that drive luxury sales. His collections did not resonate with the brand's established audience, who were accustomed to the bold and eclectic style of the Michele era, nor did they attract a new customer base. The appointment of Demna, known for his boundary-pushing and often controversial work at Balenciaga, signals a dramatic strategic pivot. Kering is betting on his distinct and culturally resonant aesthetic to inject new energy into the brand and reverse its financial decline. Demna's approach is the antithesis of his predecessor's. Where De Sarno offered restraint, Demna brings a reputation for deconstruction, streetwear influences, and viral fashion moments, suggesting a return to a more audacious and statement-making identity for Gucci.