Demna's Gucci Debut Gets Critical Acclaim

The appointment of Demna (formerly of Balenciaga) as Gucci's artistic director in March 2025 followed the departure of Sabato De Sarno. Parent company Kering praised Demna's ability to blend cultural relevance with luxury aesthetics, seeing him as a catalyst to reignite the brand's creative energy. Dubbed "Gucci Primavera," the Fall 2026 collection was unveiled at Milan's Palazzo delle Scintille. The runway was set with replicas of classical statues from Florence's Uffizi Gallery, a direct reference to the city where Guccio Gucci founded the house in 1921. The collection was a marked departure from Demna's oversized silhouettes at Balenciaga, instead channeling the sensual minimalism of Tom Ford's tenure at Gucci in the mid-1990s. Demna referenced his time in the Gucci archives as inspiration for the body-conscious dresses, low-slung trousers, and sharp tailoring. Signature house codes were woven throughout the collection. The iconic Horsebit detail appeared on pointed-toe pumps, the bamboo handle was seen on bags, and the signature red-and-green stripe lined track pants. Beyond Moss, the runway featured a cast of veteran supermodels, including Emily Ratajkowski, Karlie Kloss, and Elsa Hosk, reinforcing the show's 90s-era feel. The G-string detail on Moss's gown was a direct homage to a look from Tom Ford's provocative Spring/Summer 1997 collection for Gucci. Moss had previously been a key face for the brand during the Ford era, famously walking in his debut 1995 show. Demna stated to reporters that he intended to move away from predictable designs, promising his Gucci would be filled with "energy, passion, fun, and sex." His goal is to bring the brand "back to the center of culture."