Restaurateurs Debate Chinese Fine Dining
A debate is emerging among Chicago's Chinese American restaurateurs about why Chinese cuisine often doesn't receive the same "chef's table" treatment common in Western fine dining. The conversation points to a broader trend of elite diners seeking authenticity and innovation from a wider range of global cuisines.
- The perception of Chinese food as casual fare is rooted in its history in America; early Chinese immigrants, facing discrimination and laws like the 1882 Chinese Exclusion Act, opened restaurants that adapted dishes to American tastes with sweet, fried, and boneless options to ensure survival and broad appeal. - Efforts to position Chinese cuisine as fine dining are not new; as early as 1906, a restaurateur named Chin F. Foin invested a reported $100,000 (nearly $3 million today) into King Joy Lo in Chicago, an upscale establishment featuring a live orchestra and dance floor. - A significant shift toward authentic, regional Chinese cuisine began in the 1960s and 70s, spurred by the liberalization of U.S. immigration policy in 1965, which brought new arrivals and chefs from regions like Sichuan and Hunan. - In Chicago, some modern Chinese restaurants are already positioned at the high end; for example, food writer Kevin Pang has stated that Shanghai Terrace, located in the Peninsula Hotel, should have at least two Michelin stars. - The economic model for any fine dining establishment is challenging, with labor costs alone often consuming 35% to 40% of revenue, and a study from University College London found that Michelin-starred restaurants were actually more likely to close than those without them. - A key challenge for the legacy of family-owned Chinese restaurants is generational succession; many children of restaurateurs have witnessed the demanding nature of the business and are choosing different career paths. - The broader fine dining market is seeing a trend toward "experiential" dining, with post-pandemic consumers showing a willingness to spend more on unique, in-person luxury experiences. - Figures like Cecilia Chiang and Joyce Chen were instrumental in elevating the perception of Chinese cuisine in the mid-20th century, moving it from "cheap street food" to a more sophisticated dining experience by introducing authentic regional dishes to an American audience.
