Hermès Balances Romance and Utility
Nadège Vanhée's latest Hermès collection was inspired by twilight — the "liminal realm" between day and night. Key looks featured deep, moody tones and outerwear that seamlessly transitioned from day to evening, praised for its wearability and poetic approach to luxury dressing.
The show was staged within the historic barracks of the Garde Républicaine in Paris, where the runway was transformed into a moody, blue-tinted path bordered by fragrant, living moss to evoke a countryside at dusk. This setting was designed to physically immerse attendees in creative director Nadège Vanhée's core inspiration for the collection. A key visual element was drawn from a 1951 Hermès silk scarf design by famed artist A. M. Cassandre, titled "Perspective." This architectural, geometric pattern was reinterpreted onto quilted bombers, shirt jackets, and classic carrés, with its receding lines creating a shifting visual effect as models walked. The collection heavily referenced the brand's equestrian roots, a signature for the house originally founded as a harness workshop in 1837. This heritage was seen in modern interpretations of jodhpurs, some presented as bodysuits, and updated riding boots reimagined in thigh-high styles or with Western details. While Vanhée explored moody, nocturnal colors like navy, forest green, and rich burgundy, she punctuated the collection with vibrant, unexpected contrasts. Looks featured lime green knit turtlenecks under leather dresses and bright yellow hosiery, meant to mimic a flash of light piercing the night sky. This womenswear collection debuted just after a significant transition for the house; Véronique Nichanian presented her final menswear collection in January 2026 after a nearly four-decade tenure. The event marked a rare change for the consistently-led brand, placing a greater spotlight on its creative direction moving forward.
