Milan Fashion Week Delivers Drama
Milan Fashion Week concluded with Demna's dramatic Gucci debut and Maria Grazia Chiuri's inaugural Fendi collection setting the tone for Fall/Winter 2026. Key trends include dramatic tailoring, plush textures, and a palette balancing deep jewel tones with versatile neutrals. Stars like Uma Thurman and Monica Bellucci added glamour to front rows, while Prada dominated media with 312 appearances.
The week was a homecoming for Maria Grazia Chiuri, who began her career at Fendi in 1989 before tenures at Valentino and Dior. Her debut collection was guided by the motto "Less I, more us," a tribute to the five Fendi sisters who foundational to the brand's legacy. The runway featured slogan scarves created with artist SAGG Napoli, bearing phrases like "Loyal but not obedient," and reintroduced fur through an upcycling project called 'Echo of Love'. Demna's vision for Gucci looked to the brand's 1990s and early 2000s era under Tom Ford, emphasizing sharp, body-conscious silhouettes and a return to overt sex appeal. The show, set in a stark space with a single spotlight, culminated in supermodel Kate Moss closing the show in a black dress with a visible G-string, a direct reference to Ford's provocative heyday. The collection heavily featured leather, pencil skirts, and sleek tailoring, aiming to place Gucci back in the cultural spotlight. At Prada, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons deconstructed the runway show itself, using just 15 models to showcase 60 distinct looks. Each model walked the runway four times, shedding a layer with each pass to reveal a new outfit, demonstrating the evolution of a wardrobe throughout a day. This conceptual presentation explored what the show notes called the "complexities of multitudes" and the fluid nature of personal style. Beyond the major debuts, a mood of softened power dressing prevailed. Jil Sander showcased tailoring with relaxed shoulders and fabric folds, while designers at Dolce & Gabbana and Ralph Lauren featured herringbone and gray tones, emphasizing texture and construction over spectacle. This focus on craftsmanship and wearable, luxurious textiles was a consistent thread throughout the week's presentations. The week's events are a significant economic driver for the city, with a projected impact exceeding €200 million. The Fall/Winter 2026 edition was expected to draw more than 130,000 attendees, a 17% increase from the previous year, filling hotels and restaurants and boosting the local retail sector.
