Dior's Jonathan Anderson Slams 'Quiet Luxury'
Dior's new creative director, Jonathan Anderson, criticized the "quiet luxury" trend, likening its pervasiveness to "carbon monoxide." In an interview from the Paris atelier, Anderson outlined his mission to move the house beyond minimalist codes. He emphasized fostering a studio culture defined by materiality, narrative, and collaborative innovation rather than market-driven trends.
- Jonathan Anderson's appointment is historic for the brand; he is the first person to hold the title of sole creative director for all of Dior's collections—womenswear, menswear, and haute couture—since Christian Dior himself. He succeeds Maria Grazia Chiuri, who led womenswear for nine years, and Kim Jones, who was the menswear designer. - His critique of "quiet luxury" is backed by a track record of transforming brands through a more vocal and artistic approach. During his 11-year tenure as Creative Director at Loewe, he was credited with quadrupling revenues by infusing the brand with surrealism, craft, and viral pop culture moments, such as Rihanna's 2023 Super Bowl outfit. - The "quiet luxury" trend gained significant traction in 2023, with Google searches for the term increasing by 614%. It is often seen as a response to economic uncertainty and a departure from the logomania of the previous decade, favoring discreet, high-quality craftsmanship from brands like The Row and Brunello Cucinelli. - Anderson is known for his deep engagement with the art world, having collaborated with artists like Anthea Hamilton and institutions such as Studio Ghibli at Loewe. This approach suggests he will likely steer Dior's campaigns and collections toward more narrative-driven and culturally resonant themes rather than minimalist aesthetics. - His own label, JW Anderson, founded in 2008, has a history of subverting fashion conventions and exploring gender fluidity, which signals a potential departure from more traditional luxury codes at Dior. - Anderson's appointment is part of a larger "changing of the guard" at major LVMH and Kering-owned fashion houses, with recent creative director shifts also happening at Gucci and Chanel. His first collection for Dior menswear is anticipated in June 2025.
