Japanese-Italian Fusion Booming
Japanese-Italian "itameshi" mashup restaurants are booming with new openings nationwide, blending techniques from both culinary traditions. Michelin-starred Junoon impressed with a 4-course prix fixe featuring elegant Indian dishes, plus Blue (rum/pineapple shrub/cilantro/lime/chili) and Purple (blue pea/masala chai/honey-ginger) cocktails. New Portuguese spot Pontos opened at Gateway with rich flavors, while Breeze Koh Tao debuted international Spaghetti Alfredo with chicken/ham/mushroom/parmesan/cream.
The term "itameshi" is a portmanteau of the Japanese words for Italy (Itaria) and meal (meshi). This culinary style is not to be confused with traditional Italian food, which is known as "itaria-ryōri" in Japan. The fusion of Japanese and Italian cuisines dates back to the early 20th century, with spaghetti being introduced to Japan in the 1920s. However, the first Italian restaurant in the country, Italia Ken, was opened much earlier in 1881 by Pietro Migliore in Niigata. A significant boom in "itameshi" occurred in the 1980s and 1990s. This surge was partly due to Japanese chefs and tourists returning from Europe with a taste for Italian dishes and an economic downturn that made Italian ingredients a more affordable alternative to French ones. One of the most iconic "itameshi" dishes is Spaghetti Napolitan, which, despite its name, is a Japanese creation. It features a ketchup-based sauce with ingredients like sausage and vegetables. Another popular dish is tarako spaghetti, which incorporates salted cod roe. The compatibility of the two cuisines lies in their shared dedication to high-quality, regional ingredients and a mutual respect for noodles, rice, and seafood. This common ground allows for a harmonious blend of flavors and techniques. "Itameshi" has become a global phenomenon, with restaurants dedicated to this fusion cuisine opening in major cities like New York, London, and Hong Kong. Establishments like Kimika in New York and Angelina in London are introducing innovative dishes to a wider audience. The low-cost restaurant chain Saizeriya has played a significant role in popularizing "itameshi" within Japan, operating over 1,500 locations. This widespread accessibility has helped to solidify Japanese-Italian fusion as a mainstream culinary category.
