Japanese-Italian Fusion Explodes

This culinary fusion, also known as "Itameshi" or "Wafu Italian," dates back to post-WWII Japan. One of its earliest and most famous creations is Spaghetti Napolitan, a dish developed by Shigetada Irie, the head chef at the Hotel New Grand in Yokohama, after observing American soldiers eating spaghetti with ketchup. The ketchup-based pasta became a staple in Japanese cafes, known as *kissaten*. Another foundational dish, tarako spaghetti, was invented in the 1960s at a Tokyo restaurant named Kabe no Ana. This dish, which uses salted cod roe, was reportedly inspired by a customer who brought in caviar, prompting the chef to create a more accessible version with local ingredients. These early creations paved the way for a broader culinary movement that gained significant traction in the 1990s as Japan's economic crash led chefs to favor more affordable Italian ingredients over pricier French ones. The compatibility of Japanese and Italian food philosophies is a key reason for the fusion's success. Both cuisines emphasize respecting the quality and seasonality of ingredients and allowing them to shine. Chef Hirohiko Shoda, an ambassador of Japanese cuisine in Italy, notes that the two cultures share a pleasure in seasonal variety and the act of cooking as a gesture of love. This shared ethos allows for a natural blending of techniques and flavors. Today, chefs around the world are pushing the boundaries of Itameshi. In New Jersey, chef Robbie Felice creates dishes like cacio e pepe gyoza, aiming for a "slight confusion" where a diner can't immediately decide if the dish is Japanese or Italian. Modern Wafu pasta often incorporates ingredients like uni (sea urchin), miso, and sakura ebi (tiny dried shrimp), showcasing a deep integration of Japanese pantry staples with Italian pasta forms. The global expansion is evident in cities like London, with restaurants such as Angelina serving tasting menus that feature Japanese-Italian plates. In Milan, chef Yoji Tokuyoshi's Bentoteca is celebrated for its unique approach, while in Singapore, chef Seita Nakahara of Terra draws on his experience in Tuscany and Sicily to combine Japanese ingredients with regional Italian traditions. This niche trend is part of a larger boom in Japanese cuisine worldwide. The global Japanese restaurant market was valued at over $19.6 billion in 2025 and is projected to grow to $25.5 billion by 2033. This growth is fueled by a perception of Japanese food as a healthy and premium option, which supports the exploration of innovative fusion concepts like Itameshi. Beyond pasta, the fusion extends to other Italian classics. Diners can find pizzas topped with wagyu beef or baby sardines and sansho peppers. Another popular Itameshi dish is Doria, a uniquely Japanese creation reminiscent of risotto, which consists of baked layers of rice, bechamel, cheese, and tomato sauce.