Milan Fall 2026: Maximalism Returns

The pendulum of fashion is swinging away from the long-reigning "quiet luxury" and "less is more" ethos. Fashion history moves in cycles, with exuberant and restrained styles often following one another; this new wave of maximalism is a direct reaction to the minimalism that dominated previous seasons. Historically, maximalism has roots in the 17th-century Baroque period and saw a major revival in the flamboyant 1980s with designers like Gianni Versace. The aesthetic often re-emerges after periods of economic hardship as a form of joyful expression and a celebration of excess. At Milan Fashion Week, this translated into a disco-era revival on several runways. Demna's highly-anticipated debut for Gucci was filled with sequin frocks, including a notable backless gown worn by Kate Moss. Houses like Sportmax and Marni also contributed to the glamorous, Studio 54-inspired feeling. Beyond sparkle, designers showcased playful, candy-coated colors and statement-making outerwear. At Prada, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons focused on chaotic layering, piling thick leathers, sheer skirts, and large sweaters. Bottega Veneta and Armani presented oversized shearling and fuzzy coats designed to be the entire outfit. The week was also defined by major creative director shake-ups. Maria Grazia Chiuri debuted at Fendi, and Meryll Rogge presented her first collection for Marni, setting a new tone for some of Italy's most legendary brands. This shift towards a bolder aesthetic is also being driven by younger consumers. Gen Z's preference for individuality, irony, and self-expression through unique, story-driven pieces is pushing the industry away from uniformity and toward a "more is more" philosophy.