Burberry Marks 170th Anniversary Under Daniel Lee
Daniel Lee's creative direction is in the spotlight as Burberry marks its 170th year, with Vogue detailing how heritage and innovation are being balanced in the iconic British label. Silvana Armani also presented her first signature Giorgio Armani collection in Milan, marking a new era following the founder's passing with praise for fluidity and essential elegance.
Daniel Lee took the creative helm at Burberry in October 2022, quickly reintroducing the "Equestrian Knight Design" logo, which was first created in 1901 but shelved in 2018 under his predecessor, Riccardo Tisci. Lee's strategy involves a sharp refocus on the brand's "Britishness," with a stated goal of doubling sales in leather goods, shoes, and women's apparel. His recent Fall/Winter 2026 show was described as an ode to "going out in a particularly London way," featuring models Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Romeo Beckham. The collection showcased oversized faux fur coats, leather moto jackets, and trench coats updated with ruffled collars, all set to a soundtrack by FKA Twigs. The creative shift comes during a financial turnaround for the luxury house. For the 26 weeks ending September 27, 2025, Burberry's revenue was £1.03 billion, a 5% decrease, though adjusted operating profit saw significant improvement over the previous year. The leadership change at Giorgio Armani follows the founder's death on September 4, 2025, at age 91. His detailed will outlines a clear succession, transferring 100% of company shares to the Giorgio Armani Foundation and mandating a phased sale of company stakes over the next five years. The will stipulates that a 15% stake be sold within 18 months, with a further 30% to 54.9% sold within five years. Preferred buyers listed in the documents include luxury conglomerates LVMH and L'Oréal, though the Foundation must always retain at least a 30% stake to safeguard the brand's identity. Silvana Armani's debut ready-to-wear collection, titled "New Horizons," was presented at the historic Via Borgonuovo 21 palazzo, where the house held its early shows. The collection emphasized the brand's signature unstructured tailoring and fluidity, with looks featuring oversized suits, soft jackets, and floor-skimming white trousers. She also collaborated with Giorgio Armani's long-time partner Leo Dell'Orco on the co-ed Emporio Armani collection, which drew inspiration from a music conservatory. The main collection was noted for its restraint, omitting jewelry in favor of pins showing the Cancer zodiac sign, a nod to the late founder's birth sign.
