Elie Saab Goes 90s Film Noir
Elie Saab turned to New York for Fall 2026 inspiration, exploring the tension between uptown sophistication and downtown edge through 1990s film noir. Standout pieces included a cherry red leather bustier dress and sleek black separates, with swirling mist on the runway adding cinematic drama.
The collection's theme, "Midnight in Manhattan," channels the spirit of the 1990s New York art scene, creating a wardrobe for a woman who is both intellectual and seductive. This inspiration marks a departure from Saab's more familiar Middle Eastern opulence, exploring a darker, more urban aesthetic. The "downtown" portion of the collection showcased disciplined, architectural tailoring. Jackets featured rounded, sculptural shoulders and cinched waists, paired with either severe tube skirts or super-long, straight-leg trousers. These powerful silhouettes were crafted from a strict palette of wool, tweed, and velvet in shades of midnight black and storm-charcoal. In contrast, the "uptown" eveningwear presented a softer, more fluid sensibility. Organza and chiffon were draped and folded around the body, suggesting a sense of spontaneity and improvisation. This was complemented by taffeta dresses with short, sculpted puff skirts and corseted bodices, evoking the glamour of 90s New York nightlife. A key artistic reference in the collection was the work of American painter Cy Twombly. His visionary brushstrokes were echoed in the lush, hand-painted floral motifs that adorned mirrored leather, adding a layer of artistic depth to the more romantic pieces. This collection represents a deliberate recalibration of the Elie Saab ready-to-wear identity. While the brand is built on controlled, capital-G glamour, this season saw an injection of calculated hardness through elements like a signature crocodile leather print, suggesting a woman whose elegance is matched by her authority. The Pre-Fall 2026 collection, titled "Indelible Love," also explored themes of contrast and resilience, drawing inspiration from the spirit of Beirut. This earlier collection balanced assertive tailoring in leather and suede with the golden-age glamour of the city in the 1950s and 60s, setting the stage for the Fall season's dualities.
