Milan Fashion Week Celebrates Craftsmanship Revival

The much-discussed creative leadership changes brought a distinct new energy to Milan's legendary fashion houses. At Gucci, Demna, previously of Balenciaga and Vetements, moved away from his signature oversized silhouettes to present a body-conscious collection that channeled the sensual glamour of the Tom Ford era. His debut, dubbed "Gucci Primavera," featured skintight fabrics, plunging necklines, and a surprise runway appearance by supermodel Kate Moss. Maria Grazia Chiuri, returning to Fendi after creative director roles at Valentino and most recently Dior, offered a collection guided by the mantra "Less I, more us." Her debut was a study in restraint, opening with 17 all-black looks that prioritized silhouette and masterful construction over color. The collection was co-ed, aiming to create a shared wardrobe and featured upcycled fur from the Fendi archives. At Marni, Belgian designer Meryll Rogge, who previously worked for Marc Jacobs and Dries Van Noten, made her debut with a collection that paid homage to the brand's quirky, artistic DNA. Rogge revisited Marni's archives, bringing back oversized paillettes, playful polka dots, and a mix of textures that celebrated the house's eclectic spirit. The focus on craftsmanship extended beyond the major houses, with an emphasis on material innovation across the week. At Bottega Veneta, designer Louise Trotter presented outerwear constructed from fiberglass that shimmered with movement and created textures that mimicked fur from materials like silk and felt. Tod's showcased its expertise in leather with intricately piped and draped handkerchief dresses and powerfully structured suits. A quieter, more considered mood pervaded many collections, suggesting a shift toward longevity and personal style. This was evident in the week's approach to tailoring, which saw a move away from rigid power suits to softer, more fluid shapes with relaxed shoulders and draped jackets. At Prada, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons offered a masterclass in layering, with models wearing multiple ensembles at once to be peeled away, reflecting the complexity of modern life. Beyond the runway, a palpable sense of community defined the week, with designers attending and supporting each other's shows. The atmosphere was less about spectacle and more a reaffirmation of Milan's identity as a city where fashion is deeply intertwined with real life, craft, and commerce. The week also saw a noticeable disco revival, with '70s-inspired glamour appearing in multiple collections. Sequins, high-shine metallics, and easy-to-move-in silhouettes were spotted at Gucci and Sportmax, while Ferragamo showcased sculptural gold mini-dresses, signaling a return to high-octane eveningwear. Emerging and independent designers also made their mark. Portuguese brand PE DE CHUMBO, for instance, highlighted sustainable practices by using textile waste from local factories to create their unique, textured fabrics. This focus on a circular economy and artisanal techniques was a recurring theme among the newer names on the Milan calendar.