Noir Kei Ninomiya's Gloom-Inspired Collection
Noir Kei Ninomiya's Fall 2026 collection at Paris Fashion Week featured "wearables that seemed to make gloom tangible" with intricate intrecciato hairpieces by artist Shoplifter. The show's discordant, anxious soundtrack reinforced the immersive, surreal mood making it one of the week's most talked-about presentations.
A protégé of Comme des Garçons' Rei Kawakubo, Kei Ninomiya launched his own label in 2012 after honing his skills as a pattern cutter at the iconic Japanese house. His brand, Noir Kei Ninomiya, operates under the Comme des Garçons umbrella, a testament to his avant-garde design approach. Ninomiya is renowned for his experimental construction techniques, often eschewing traditional sewing. Instead, he connects fabric pieces with studs, rivets, or by creating intricate, puzzle-like structures. This allows him to build voluminous and complex silhouettes that are both sculptural and wearable. While the brand's name, "Noir," means "black" in French, and the color is central to his work, Ninomiya often uses other colors to accentuate and give new dimension to his signature shade. His focus remains on form and technique, using a monochromatic base to highlight the complexity of his designs. The collaboration with Icelandic artist Shoplifter (Hrafnhildur Arnardóttir) on the hairpieces is in line with Ninomiya's history of partnering with artists to create a complete aesthetic vision. These collaborations often result in striking headwear and accessories that are integral to the collection's narrative.
