Scientists Create Mushroom Leather Alternative
Scientists have created a leather clothing alternative made entirely from mushrooms that looks and feels like real leather. The sustainable, vegan material offers an eco-friendly option for the fashion industry and environmentally conscious consumers.
The core of this innovative material is mycelium, the intricate root-like network of fungi. Companies like MycoWorks have developed proprietary technologies, such as the Fine Mycelium™ process, to engineer these threads as they grow, creating a dense, intertwined structure that mimics the strength and feel of animal leather. This controlled cultivation allows for the customization of thickness, texture, and durability to meet specific design needs. The production of traditional cowhide leather carries a heavy environmental price tag. Creating a single leather tote bag can require over 17,000 liters of water and generate more than 100 kilograms of CO2. The conventional tanning process also relies on carcinogenic chemicals like chromium, which can pollute waterways and pose health risks to workers. In contrast, mycelium-based leather offers a more sustainable profile. MycoWorks' Reishi™, for instance, has a significantly lower carbon footprint, with one version measuring 2.76 kg of CO2 per square meter. The cultivation process for mycelium is also remarkably fast, with some materials grown in less than two weeks, a fraction of the time needed to raise livestock. This bio-fabrication has attracted significant investment and high-profile collaborations. MycoWorks, founded in 2013 by Philip Ross and Sophia Wang, has partnered with luxury giant Hermès and designer Nick Fouquet to create commercially available products. The company has also launched an e-commerce platform, making its Reishi™ material directly accessible to designers and brands. Another key player, Bolt Threads, developed a mycelium leather called Mylo™, which has been used by brands like Stella McCartney and Adidas. While Bolt Threads has since shifted its focus, the groundwork laid by these pioneers has paved the way for a growing market. The journey for mushroom leather began with artistic exploration. MycoWorks co-founder Philip Ross, an artist, started cultivating mycelium for sculptures in the 1990s. It was the interest from architects and manufacturers in a more flexible version of his rigid creations that sparked the development of the Fine Mycelium™ platform and its flagship product, Reishi. Looking ahead, the focus is on scaling up production and further innovation. MycoWorks has opened a commercial-scale factory in South Carolina to meet increasing demand. Ongoing research is aimed at enhancing the material's properties and expanding its applications, from high fashion to automotive interiors with partners like General Motors. While many vegan leathers rely on plastic coatings for durability, materials like Reishi are notable for being 100% plastic-free. The finishing process for some mushroom leathers utilizes chrome-free tanning technologies, further reducing the environmental impact and ensuring the final product is biodegradable.
