Demna shifts Gucci’s direction

Demna’s Fall/Winter 2026 Gucci lineup leaned heavily into body-focused silhouettes — skintight black slacks, sheer hosiery minidresses and off-the-shoulder tees were recurrent motifs on the runway. (wmagazine.com) Critics flagged the collection’s tension between Italian heritage codes and overt sensuality, with reviewers describing deliberate contrasts of “Renaissance references” and stark pragmatism in tailoring. (lofficielusa.com) Industry roundups captured a split reaction: veteran fashion commentators praised its provocation while other experts questioned whether the aggressive reimagining risks diluting long‑standing Gucci signifiers. (wwd.com) The Demna appointment also sits against a commercial backdrop — Gucci revenue fell from around $12.4 billion in 2022 to roughly $7 billion more recently, a decline cited by analysts as part of the rationale for a high‑profile creative reset. (thecut.com) Demna’s rollout has leaned on nontraditional presentation tactics as well: his earlier Gucci launch used a 37–38 look lookbook and a short film directed by Spike Jonze that featured Demi Moore, signaling a preference for cinematic narratives over conventional shows. (whowhatwear.com) John Galliano’s Zara deal is a two‑year creative partnership that will rework Zara’s past-season archive into seasonal collections, with the first drop scheduled for September 2026. (forbes.com) Retailers and fashion outlets confirm the collaboration will follow a seasonal cadence (two releases per year) and position Galliano to directly intervene in Zara’s high‑street supply chain rather than as a one‑off capsule. (runwaylive.com) Galliano’s move to Zara follows his exit from Maison Margiela and a low public profile since late 2024, making the partnership one of the most talked‑about democratizing moves by a former haute‑couture provocateur in recent seasons. (wmagazine.com)