Hawaii Man Uses Surfing for Recovery
A Hawaii resident overcame his sports gambling addiction by offering free surf lessons to strangers, creating a supportive community for others struggling with addiction. His grassroots initiative shows how surf culture and ocean therapy can be powerful tools for healing and connection.
The First Wave Project in Waikiki was co-founded by Buddy Wiggins, Zach Murphy, and Isaiah Moniz, three friends from Oʻahu. Their goal is to share surfing with those who might feel excluded, targeting individuals who believe they are too old, unfit, or scared to try. The initiative is a grassroots effort, offering lessons for free to people who would likely never book a commercial lesson, which can cost around $200 in the area. Before starting the project, 32-year-old Buddy Wiggins was a pool cleaner who had lost nearly everything to a sports gambling addiction. He and his friends now offer lessons twice a week and have taught around 100 people. The project has gained significant traction on social media, with their videos reaching over a million views. Although Hawaii has strict anti-gambling laws, it's estimated that residents wager approximately $300 million annually through illegal offshore websites and bookmaking operations. Lawmakers have recently considered legalizing sports betting, with one bill proposing a 15% tax on revenue, but the efforts have so far been unsuccessful. The use of surfing as a tool for recovery is part of a broader practice known as "ocean therapy" or "surf therapy." Research and anecdotal evidence suggest that the physical and mental challenges of surfing can create a meditative state, reduce stress, and help individuals build confidence and a sense of accomplishment. This can be particularly beneficial for those recovering from addiction by offering a natural high and a structured, supportive community. The concept of using sports for addiction recovery is not unique to surfing. Other grassroots programs have seen success by creating supportive communities around different physical activities. For example, Camden County's REAL Sports program in New Jersey uses golf, softball, and cornhole to support individuals in recovery. Similarly, the "Addict II Athlete" organization in Utah and Arizona provides a community-based recovery program centered around various workouts and athletic events as an alternative to traditional 12-step programs.
