Gucci's Demna Era Launches Strong

Demna's appointment follows a period of significant creative transition for Gucci. He succeeds Sabato De Sarno, whose tenure lasted just two years, and the highly influential Alessandro Michele, who departed in November 2022. Michele was credited with nearly tripling Gucci's revenue by introducing a romantic, maximalist "geek chic" aesthetic during his seven years at the helm. The creative shift is a key part of parent company Kering's strategy to revitalize its flagship brand. Gucci's sales fell 22% to €6 billion in 2025, heavily impacting Kering's overall performance. Kering's CEO, Luca de Meo, has initiated a broad turnaround plan aiming to return all brands to growth within 18 months. The debut collection, titled "Gucci Primavera," signaled a move toward body-conscious sensuality, with many looks referencing Tom Ford's celebrated, high-glamour era at Gucci in the mid-1990s. This marks a departure from Michele's eclectic and layered style, focusing instead on sheer fabrics, tailored looks, and what Demna calls the "coexistence of heritage and fashion." The runway show itself was staged within Milan's Palazzo delle Scintille, which was transformed to evoke Florence's Uffizi Gallery. The space featured 3D-scanned plaster replicas of classical sculptures, a direct nod to the brand's founding in Florence in 1921 and Demna's immersion in its archives. Kate Moss's closing walk was a direct reference to her history with the brand; she famously walked in Tom Ford's debut Gucci collection in 1995. The visible G-string detail on her gown was a callback to Ford's provocative Spring/Summer 1997 collection, reinforcing the show's homage to that influential period. In a move signaling a new pace, select items from the "Primavera" collection were made available for purchase online and in some stores immediately following the show. This "see now, buy now" component underscores the urgency of Kering's push for a dynamic and commercially successful turnaround.