Extravagant Tasting Menus Rise

The modern tasting menu, known as *menu dégustation*, was popularized by French chefs during the nouvelle cuisine movement of the 1970s. This format was heavily inspired by the traditional Japanese multi-course meal called *kaiseki*, which emphasizes seasonality and artistic presentation. For chefs, the format is less about a meal and more about telling a story. It provides a canvas for culinary creativity, allowing them to guide the diner through a specific progression of flavors and techniques, showcasing their full artistic vision without the constraints of an à la carte menu. From a business perspective, the fixed-menu format is highly efficient. It allows kitchens to precisely manage inventory, which significantly reduces food waste and controls costs. This financial predictability has become increasingly attractive for restaurants navigating rising food and labor expenses. The pinnacle of this trend includes experiences like Sublimotion in Ibiza, where chef Paco Roncero's menu costs over $1,700 per person. In Shanghai, Ultraviolet by Paul Pairet offers a 20-course multi-sensory meal for around $1,422, employing lights and sounds to accompany the dishes. However, the format has faced criticism for being overly long and restrictive. Some diners and even chefs have referred to the experience as a "tyranny of the tasting menu," arguing that it removes diner choice and can become monotonous over several hours. In response to this fatigue, a counter-movement is emerging. Some chefs are now offering shorter, more focused tasting menus of 8-10 courses or providing both a tasting and an à la carte option to give diners more flexibility.