Chicago's New 'It' Table is Obélix
River North's Obélix has become Chicago's most acclaimed new restaurant, earning top billing from Chicago Magazine and a James Beard nod. Run by the sons of Le Bouchon's founder, it's the current 'it' spot for business leaders with its blend of classic French and playful dishes like foie gras tacos. It represents a new wave of chef-driven energy, alongside other hot spots like Valhalla in Fulton Market.
Brothers Oliver and Nicolas Poilevey opened Obélix in May 2022, continuing a family legacy while forging their own path. Their late parents, Jean-Claude and Susanne Poilevey, were beloved figures in Chicago's culinary scene, having opened the classic French bistro Le Bouchon in 1993 and later La Sardine. Oliver, as executive chef, and Nicolas, as wine director, carry on the tradition of French hospitality they grew up with. The name 'Obélix' is a nod to the iconic French comic character, reflecting a blend of reverence for Gallic culture and a playful spirit. This duality is evident in the menu, which features French classics like onion soup and escargots alongside inventive dishes with global influences. Chef de cuisine Nathan Kim collaborates with Oliver Poilevey to create items that both honor and defy tradition. A significant portion of the menu is dedicated to duck, a personal passion of chef Oliver. Offerings range from a duck confit salad to a 10-day dry-aged duck breast and even pink peppercorn macarons filled with foie gras mousse. The much-talked-about "Foie-co" is a seared lobe of foie gras on a corn tortilla with salsa macha, a dish originally conceived at Poilevey's other venture, Taqueria Chingón. The restaurant at 700 N. Sedgwick St. has quickly become a tough reservation to secure, with a consistently packed dining room. The 66-seat space, formerly home to Entente, features burgundy banquettes and a lively, boisterous atmosphere where tables are positioned closely together. For those without a reservation, the bar is open for walk-ins. Obélix's critical acclaim includes being named a 2023 James Beard Award finalist for Best New Restaurant in the country. This national recognition came after *Chicago Magazine* had already named it the city's best new restaurant. The restaurant's pastry chef, Courtney Kenyon-Snider, has also been recognized with a James Beard nomination for Outstanding Pastry Chef or Baker. Valhalla, located in the Time Out Market in Fulton Market, offers a different, though equally buzzy, fine-dining experience. Run by Chef Stephen Gillanders, it presents an ambitious 11-course tasting menu that reflects global culinary influences, from Filipino to Mexican and Chinese. The setting is distinct, featuring a 14-seat chef's counter that offers a front-row view of the open kitchen.
