El Califa de León loses Michelin star

Michelin’s 2026 Mexico guide removed El Califa de León from its one-star list after the Mexico City taquería became the first taco stand-style restaurant to win a star in 2024, according to Michelin’s latest selection and multiple Mexican media reports. Michelin published the 2026 Mexico selection on May 20 and said the country now has 29 starred restaurants. El Califa de León still appears on Michelin’s Mexico City restaurant list, but without a star designation. The change quickly drew attention because El Califa de León’s 2024 award became one of Michelin’s most widely discussed Mexico decisions. Reuters photographed the taquería in May 2024 after the award, and Infobae’s May 21 report said the updated status reflects Michelin’s annual review process. El País, which also reported the downgrade on May 21, said El Califa de León was the only restaurant to lose a star in the 2026 Mexico selection. (guide.michelin.com) ### Which taquería now has the Michelin star? La Once Mil is the taquería now listed with one Michelin star in the 2026 guide. Michelin’s official restaurant page identifies La Once Mil, in Miguel Hidalgo, as “One Star: High quality cooking” in the 2026 MICHELIN Guide Mexico. El Universal and Infobae both reported that La Once Mil replaced El Califa de León as the starred taquería in the new selection. (infobae.com) El Universal said La Once Mil was founded by chef César de la Parra and described it as a taquería that combines traditional tacos with a more refined format. El Financiero, in separate coverage on May 21, said the restaurant’s tacos range from 120 pesos to 335 pesos and that singer Maluma has eaten there. ### Did El Califa de León disappear from Michelin entirely? (guide.michelin.com) Michelin’s Mexico City listing shows El Califa de León remains in the guide as a recommended restaurant, not a starred one. Local reports from La Razón, Gastrolab and CDMX Secreta said the taquería kept that recommended status in 2026 even after losing the star. That distinction matters because Michelin’s annual guide separates starred restaurants from Bib Gourmand picks and from the broader recommendation list. (eluniversal.com.mx) Michelin’s May 20 article on the 2026 Mexico selection said seven newcomers joined the starred list this year, while the total number of starred restaurants reached 29. (guide.michelin.com) ### Was this only a Mexico City story? Baja California also featured prominently in 2026 Michelin coverage. El Universal’s taco-focused roundup said Michelin recognized taquerías beyond Mexico City, including Baja California entries, while regional reporting highlighted the state’s strong showing across starred, green-star and Bib Gourmand categories. (guide.michelin.com) Michelin’s official Mexico listings show the broader point: the 2026 guide covers restaurants across Mexico City, Baja California, Oaxaca, Nuevo León and other states, not only the capital. The taquería story stood out because the change involved the country’s most famous Michelin-recognized taco shop. (eluniversal.com.mx) ### Why did this draw so much notice? El Califa de León drew unusual international attention in 2024 because Michelin had never before awarded a star to a taquería of its kind. The 2026 update reversed that status just two years later, while leaving the restaurant inside the guide. Infobae said the revision reflects Michelin’s inspection criteria being applied each year to restaurants already included. (guide.michelin.com) Michelin’s next public benchmark will be its 2027 Mexico selection, while the current 2026 guide remains the reference point for starred, Bib Gourmand and recommended taquerías across the country. (guide.michelin.com) (infobae.com)