Gucci Pivots to Craftsmanship Narrative
Gucci is executing a strategic shift away from price positioning and toward a narrative centered on craftsmanship and heritage. This new focus is evident in its latest eyewear campaign, starring global ambassador Ni Ni, which emphasizes place and process over product. Trade analysis suggests this is a deliberate move to reinforce its luxury value proposition.
- This strategic pivot follows a period of declining sales; parent company Kering reported Gucci's revenue fell by 22% to €6 billion in 2025, with sales from its direct retail network down 18%. The new direction is led by Creative Director Sabato De Sarno, who joined from Valentino in January 2023, where he was the fashion director for both men's and women's ready-to-wear. - De Sarno's debut "Gucci Ancora" collection for Spring/Summer 2024 marked a distinct departure from the maximalist and eccentric aesthetic of his predecessor, Alessandro Michele, signaling a return to a more minimalist, sleek, and sensual style reminiscent of the Tom Ford era at Gucci. The term "Ancora," meaning "also now, also then," reflects the brand's aim to honor its past while looking to the future. - The "Ancora" campaign, shot by photographer David Sims, features five new models and focuses on personal expression and authentic beauty to underscore the collection's real-life wearability. A key color from this collection is "Rosso Ancora," a deep burgundy red inspired by the elevator of the Savoy Hotel in London where founder Guccio Gucci once worked. - The shift comes after a period of "brand fatigue," where the previous creative direction, while initially successful, began to see slowing growth. Under Alessandro Michele (2015-2022), Gucci was known for its gender-fluid, eclectic, and renaissance-inspired aesthetic that resonated with a younger audience and initially drove significant growth. - The new strategy aims to elevate the brand's positioning by focusing on its heritage of Italian craftsmanship, quality, and timeless style, moving away from a reliance on entry-level items. This includes re-emphasizing iconic products like the Jackie 1961 and Bamboo bags. - Prior to De Sarno's appointment, Gucci had already begun to push the brand upmarket, emphasizing classic styles to lay the groundwork for this new chapter. Analysts note that Kering has a track record of successfully reinventing its brands through a combination of "daring creativity, merchandising canning, and fast, 'all in,' broad front execution." - The move is also a response to a challenging luxury market, where brands catering to the wealthiest clientele, like Hermès, have shown more resilience. Kering's leadership has acknowledged that recent performance does not reflect Gucci's true potential and is focused on restoring the brand's desirability and reigniting growth.
