Maria Grazia Chiuri Makes Fendi Debut
Maria Grazia Chiuri made her official debut as Fendi's creative director at Milan Fashion Week. The collection from the former Dior and Valentino designer, whose career began at Fendi, is being watched as a key example of how major luxury houses seek leaders who can venerate archives while injecting contemporary relevance. The appointment underscores an industry trend of favoring directors who understand house codes but can also execute bold reinterpretations for new markets.
Maria Grazia Chiuri's appointment is a homecoming; she began her career at Fendi in 1989 and was part of the accessories team led by Silvia Venturini Fendi that created the iconic Baguette bag in 1997. This return to her roots follows a celebrated tenure at Dior, where she was the first woman to be artistic director and was credited with nearly quadrupling revenues. She takes the helm from Kim Jones, who led Fendi's womenswear and couture from 2020 to 2024 and continues as artistic director of Dior Men. During his four years, Jones was noted for major collaborations, including the "Fendace" project with Versace, and Fendi's revenues reportedly neared €2 billion. Chiuri's debut collection featured the runway motto "Less I, More Us," signaling a collaborative ethos she championed at Dior. This was evident in partnerships with the estate of Italian visual poet Mirella Bentivoglio and performance artist SAGG Napoli, both of whom she had previously worked with. The show focused on sharp tailoring, sheer dresses, and layered silhouettes intended to serve the body's movement. In a significant nod to sustainability and the house's origins as a furrier, the collection utilized only upcycled and archival fur. The collection heavily featured reinterpretations of the Baguette bag in various materials like beading, animal prints, and saddle-stitched leather, reasserting the house's savoir-faire in accessories. Silvia Venturini Fendi, the third-generation family member who stepped aside as creative director last fall, watched the show from the front row for the first time. Her daughter and jewelry artistic director, Delfina Delettrez Fendi, is part of the fourth generation now working within the LVMH-owned brand. The appointment comes as Fendi's parent company, LVMH, reported record revenues of €86.2 billion in 2023, with its fashion and leather goods division showing strong growth. Chiuri's track record of commercial success at Dior signals a focus on continuing this momentum.
