Demna's Gucci Debut Features Kate Moss

Demna's first Gucci show in Milan marked a major moment as Kering pushes for a brand turnaround. Kate Moss closed the runway in a peekaboo thong gown—her first Gucci appearance in 30 years. The show also featured rap's underground stars like Fakemink and Nettspend on the runway and front row.

Demna's appointment follows the abrupt departure of Sabato De Sarno, who exited Gucci after less than two years. De Sarno was brought in to pivot from his predecessor's maximalist style to a more understated "quiet luxury," but the new vision failed to produce the required commercial success. The creative director's chair at Gucci has been a revolving door since the late 2022 departure of Alessandro Michele. Michele had famously reinvented Gucci with a romantic, gender-fluid, and eccentric aesthetic, initially leading to massive growth before sales began to stagnate. He was reportedly asked to initiate a strong design shift, a request he was unable to fulfill. The leadership shuffle is a direct response to Gucci's struggling finances. The brand, which accounts for about half of parent company Kering's revenue, saw sales fall 23% in 2024 and another 26% in the first half of 2025. Kering's overall 2025 profits fell sharply, intensifying the pressure for a successful turnaround at its flagship house. By hiring Demna, Kering is making a bold move to recapture cultural relevance and drive sales. During his decade at Balenciaga, Demna transformed the house into a billion-dollar megabrand, known for its viral products and a distinctive blend of classic couture with gritty, underground aesthetics. Kering CEO François-Henri Pinault stated that Demna's "creative power is exactly what Gucci needs," signaling a strategic shift towards a more provocative and buzz-worthy direction. This marks a significant departure from the brand's recent attempt at sophisticated minimalism, placing a bet on Demna's proven ability to generate hype and commercial hits.

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