Milan’s refined minimalism
At Milan Fashion Week Simone Bellotti’s Jil Sander collection is winning praise for ‘refined minimalism’ — clean lines, subtle structure and a muted palette driving the F/W 26 conversation. (runwaylive.com) Jorge Luis Salinas’ Virreinato collection doubled down on texture and fiber language, positioning restraint and craftsmanship over ornamentation for F/W 26–27. (lasteles.com)
Simone Bellotti staged his sophomore Jil Sander show on Feb. 25, 2026 inside the brand’s Milan headquarters in the label’s 1990s show space. (wwd.com ) Bellotti framed the season around the idea of “house” and “indoor clothing,” telling WWD that second collections present a particular challenge and ambiguity he wanted to explore. (wwd.com ) Critics flagged a move from his debut’s purism to a “subtractive” minimalism defined by slim, simplified tailoring and references to Anders Petersen’s photography. (hypebeast.com ) Buyers reacted quickly to the wearable coats and refined suiting, and editors cited Bellotti’s coherence as a defining standout of Milan Fashion Week 2026. (runwaylive.com ) Jorge Luis Salinas presented Virreinato on March 1, 2026 at Milan Fashion Week, staging the show in the Galleria Meravigli and billing the collection as a textile-led meditation on memory and identity. (fashionality.nyc ) Virreinato leaned on Peruvian fibers and techniques — alpaca, silk, handmade crochet and 3D textural knitting — with Salinas emphasizing that pieces were crafted in Peru to foreground ancestral workmanship. (jsalinas.pe ) Salinas framed the line as a dialogue with the Virreinato (Viceroyalty) era and commercialed it as part of a broader bid to keep Peru visible on international calendars, a push he said he wants to sustain permanently. (kendam.com ) Industry signals showed appetite for Salinas’ approach: Milan coverage noted it was his third appearance on the circuit, and a TikTok clip of the show posted by his account received roughly 27,500 likes. (hola.com )