South Indian Micro-Cuisine Draws Bay Area Lines
Bay Area diners are lining up at Mylapore restaurants for South Indian micro-cuisine specialties like Chettinad curries, Kanchipuram idlis, and unique spice blends. This trend highlights growing appreciation for regional Indian cuisine nuances beyond familiar dishes. The Bay Area is becoming a top destination for adventurous eaters seeking authentic South Asian flavors.
Chettinad cuisine originates from the Chettiar community, a group of merchants from the Tamil Nadu region in India. Their extensive travels for trade influenced their food, incorporating spices like star anise, cinnamon, and cloves, alongside sun-dried meats and salted vegetables. This results in complex and aromatic dishes, a characteristic that distinguishes them from the more commonly known South Indian fare. The founder of the Mylapore restaurant chain, Jay Jayaraman, draws inspiration from his Tamil Brahmin heritage. He aims to bring the specific cultural and culinary experience of Mylapore, a neighborhood in Chennai, India, to the Bay Area. The restaurants are strictly vegetarian, a decision influenced by the desire to serve a niche but significant population of Indian vegetarians in the area. Kanchipuram idlis, another specialty mentioned, have their origins in the temple town of Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadu. These steamed rice cakes are savory and aromatic, spiced with cumin, black pepper, ginger, and curry leaves. They are traditionally offered as "prasadam" (a sacred food offering) at the Varadaraja Perumal Temple. The growing popularity of regional Indian food is a national trend, with diners increasingly seeking authentic and diverse culinary experiences beyond standard "curry house" menus. This shift is evident in the rising number of restaurants focusing on specific regional cuisines, from the coastal flavors of Kerala to the street food of Mumbai. This movement reflects a broader change in the American palate towards more complex and nuanced global flavors. The Bay Area has become a fertile ground for this culinary evolution, partly due to its significant and affluent Indian-American population. Chefs are moving beyond generalized North and South Indian categories to highlight the hyper-regional diversity of Indian food. Establishments like Copra, from the two-Michelin-starred chef Srijith Gopinathan, further elevate South Indian cuisine by blending traditional recipes with California ingredients.
