Magliano’s menswear signal

Magliano has become a shorthand for a different kind of Milan menswear: oversized suits, genderless cuts, and knitwear that looks closer to workwear than boardroom dress. (highsnobiety.com) Highsnobiety singled out the label in an April 2026 Milan guide and said designer Luca Magliano has built that language since founding the brand in 2017. Magliano’s own site says the company was founded in Bologna in 2017 and recasts suits, gilets, and shirts with a “dark, off-beat and dishevelled” attitude. (highsnobiety.com) (magliano.website) The brand describes its clothes as “menswear fundamentals” turned into a “new genderless code,” and its current collections mix tailoring with skirts, accessories, and heavy knitwear. Business of Fashion says Magliano’s designs are oversized and gender-fluid, and place a grungier spin on Italian dandyism. (magliano.website) (businessoffashion.com) That places Magliano inside a Milan fashion scene that is no longer defined only by Prada, Armani, or Gucci. Highsnobiety’s guide said a generation of designers in the city has spent the last several years building labels with “a very different logic,” one shaped less by heritage and more by necessity. (highsnobiety.com) Magliano’s rise has also been marked by industry milestones outside the biggest luxury houses. Business of Fashion says the label debuted at Pitti Uomo in 2018, one year after its founding, and WWD reported Magliano returned to the Florence menswear fair as a guest designer in January 2023. (businessoffashion.com) (wwd.com) The label picked up a bigger global signal in June 2023, when Luca Magliano won the Karl Lagerfeld Prize at the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers. Business of Fashion lists that award on his profile, and WWD said the recognition came as the designer prepared a spring 2024 show in Milan. (businessoffashion.com) (wwd.com) The clothes themselves carry a specific geography. Business of Fashion says Magliano was born and raised in Bologna, and ties the brand’s point of view to the city’s industrial history, leftist politics, and counterculture. (businessoffashion.com) That background helps explain why Magliano reads as a signal as much as a label. In Milan, where the default image of menswear is still polished luxury, Magliano’s slouchier tailoring and worker-coded knitwear point to a parallel uniform that has been building in plain sight since 2017. (highsnobiety.com) (magliano.website)